Day six - Horn Head

     After having conquered Errigal, and for me that is how it felt not just physically but also emotionally, I was pretty beat.  My legs were mushy and I was ready for an easier day - Not to be. We started todays hike with a bit of confusion.  The route that is usually taken was closed.

Trying to figure out where to go...

     Apparently there was a discussion at the local pub about the land use and one businessman asked a farmer "how much are you getting for the use of your land".  This started an argument and the farmer in question refused to let anyone pass on his land.  So as we began to hike, uphill (why must it always start straight uphill??) ;-P  Linda was in search for a way to pass to the beach.  She knocked on several doors and finally a farmer came in from his field.  After a discussion he gave us the go ahead to cross his fields.
   Today I discovered a new type of Irish walking obstacle - very sharp grass.  Not sure what type it is (forgot to ask which is not like me!)  Had to pass through that to get to the path we needed.  Lots of up and down.  Once again beautiful shore line.  Linda had told us that Horn Head is actually more dramatic and higher than the Cliffs Of Mohr but not nearly as easy to get to.

Going across the famers field - Errigal in background on Right

    We stopped for lunch on the side of a valley looking into it.  It blocked the wind that was picking up.  As we sat there no one spoke.  We all watched as the clouds moved overhead cast moving shadows on the valley below.  So peaceful.  Could hear the waves crashing and the sheep baaing but otherwise silence.  One of our group Andrease had stopped to sketch a ways back and Linda was keeping an eye out for him.  When he did not appear she went looking.  Some us began walking because we saw the OTHER side of the valley that we needed to climb.  Off we went.

Horn Head (from a distance)

As we got closer we saw what all the fuss was about - it was breathtaking.

View from the top

Finally got to the top!

Once we got there and climbed to the very top we still had to get back to the van.  I think most of us were ready for a break.  It had been an EXCELLENT, but long week of hiking.  As we headed down we passed the ruins of an old watch tower.  Linda had told us the parking lot was "just over the next bit"  That bit was a bit far away - but we keep walking.  As we walked down the road to the van Linda hitched a ride so she could get the van and pick us all up (I think she sensed a mutiny!)
It all worked out in the end and we made it back to town and Linda stopped and we all got a celebratory pint.  She also gave each of us a certificate of achievement for the "job well done!"
While at the pub she discovered there was to be music that night starting at 5. We all agreed to run back take a quick shower and head back before dinner for some music.  It was a great session and a terrific way to end our time together.

Slainte'

Brian and Julie

Our group taking in the tunes

Andrease and Gabby

Linda and Marette deep in conversation!

Day Five - Mt. Errigal!!!!!

Climbing Mount Errigal

     We woke and still did not know if we were going to be a go for Mt. Errigall.  I was feeling a bit nervous probably because I had built this up for so long in my head, having it as the goal since I booked the trip.  

      I checked the weather forecast and it did not look good - 100% chance of rain from 9 am on.  If I am honest, a part of me was relieved.  Fear of accomplishing a goal?  Fear of trying and failing?  Not sure...

     At Breakfast we meet the two new members of our group “the dutch” as Linda had been referring to them.  Marietta and Marcel.   They were both very nice.  Linda told us we would drive over to the mountain and see what the weather was and then make the decision of what we were going to do. She already had an alternative hike for those who did not want to do Errigal.  As we drove over I saw that Errigal was clear.  I swallowed, mentally preparing myself that I might be climbing the mountain today  I was torn between fear and excitement at the possibility. 

     When we got there Linda made the decision we were good to go.  She asked who wanted to do Errigal - my hand went up.  After dropping half the group off at the alternative site we got ready to climb.  From the car park it didn’t look “too” bad that changed when we began the assent.  

     The first part was bog. I took a deep breath and started.  As is typical for me it took a bit to prime the pump and get me moving.  I found I was breathing weird - I could not catch my breath.  I started to fall behind the group which from the get go has been my biggest fear (slowing the group down). I think I began to mentally sabotage myself and I began to have a moment of panic. I kept going one foot in front of the other through the bog.  Stop… catch my breath… push down the panic…walk… catch my breath.. 

At the Skree

     About then Linda came back down to where I was and asked if I was OK.  I told her I was having trouble catching my breath.  She very calmly told me a story about a time when she had trouble and the lesson one of her hikers had given to her, she shared it with me. I could see her doing a check to make sure I was OK and then stayed with with, modeling the pattern as we walked.  Walking slowly with me setting the pace as I caught my breath and slowed it down. Short short through nose long through mouth.  My legs stopped hurting and I was able to keep going.  We got to the Skree (the loose rocky part of the mountain) At this point the wind set in,  blowing my hat almost off.  I pulled up my hood and then I heard the tat tat of the wind whipping my hood about my head and the sniff sniff blow of my breath. I kept my eyes on Linda’s boots one foot up then the next.  step by step… pole pull by pole pull.  I dared not look up.  It was a tough climb and with the wind blowing so strongly I had to anchor my pole several times to prevent me being blown over. Linda kept encouraging me.  She took it slow with me and I was able to get to the place where the others had gathered. I turned around and looked, wow I could not believe I had gotten here! This goal was about more than climbing a mountain, it was about setting my sights on something that at the time seemed unattainable, working to get ready and then not giving up.  Another bit of muchness returned.  I could not get the grin off my face!

      By this time the wind was blowing fiercely.  The next and last 100 meters of this hike were up and over a razor back.  Linda took Marette and Marcele up to check on conditions while Andrease and I waited. As I sat there I unloaded the baggage of negative emotions I had been carrying of too long, the fear, the anxiety the always planning and worrying and I sent it to the winds.  I asked Nanny and the universe to scatter them and also to give me courage to be open to all possibilities.  A very powerful moment for me.

Made it!!!

    They came back and decided that it was not a good day to be doing that part, not safe just too windy.  We congratulated ourselves on a job well done and would have had a biscuit but it was too windy to open a pack. After a few pictures we all headed back down.  Down for me was a bit easier but I did so with care and respect for the wind and the rocks.  I went down lighter and feeling better then I had in a long time.  I took my time watching my feet and making sure I didn’t fall or get blown over  When we got down - the rains started.  We had been so fortunate to not have them falling while we were hiking.
     We went and collected the other hikers and ate our lunch in the rain - I didn't even notice.  This day had been a success.  The hike was probably the shortest we would do, but for me it was monumental.  Life is indeed good.

Day four - Glenveagh National Park

     Today was our day "off".  We started a bit later and at breakfast Linda told us that we had a few choices we could take a boat to Tory Island and explore (a 45 minute boat ride in not so calm waters) OR go see Glenveagh National park.  The group voted for the Park.

     As we drove there we once again passed Errigal.  It loomed large and formidable.  We also passed Muckish Mountain or Hogs Back which was a more flat mountain.  I continued to be awed by the beautiful country in this area.  

     Linda told us about the history of what we were going to be seeing today...

     Glenveagh (means glen of the birch tree)  is about 10 thousand hectares or 200,000 acres National Park.  The man who set it up was John George Adare.  He was very wealthy buisiness man and  he bought the lands and built a castle. 

     The castle is not very old it was built in 1867, post famine, but for the most part it was still a very impoverished society.  George Adare is infamous because when one of his stewards was murdered and sheep were stolen he retaliated by  evicted 244 tenant farmers off their lands in 1871.  That put him into history.  He died about 5 years after the castle was built.  Never saw his vision of a hunting lodge and place to entertain come to fruition.  

     His wife Cordilla was viewed as a kind hearted lady, she lived  to 1921.  She was the one who got the castle to the way it is today - laid out the garden as we see it today did a huge amount for the community - she lived here every year till 1920’s  spending each summer  here .  

     When she died,  it was during the time Ireland was  fighting for independence.  The IRA took over the castle.  It was built in granite stone and  the IRA found it a perfect place to hide.  They left, however  when they saw the English Army.  The Arm then moved into the castle for a bit. 

   Next a man named Arthur Kingsley Porter bought it 1924ish.  He was a lecturer in Harvard and bought it for 5000 pounds.  This man has a rich history he studied Irish Archeology - that is why he loved Glenveagh.  There is some mystery about his demise. Supposedly he had an accident in the 1930’s.  He mysterious died on Inishboffen, but his body was never found.  Intrigue that is connected to him, Lousie Constacan wrote a book about him.  It transpired that Kingsly Porter  was married for 17 years before he was able to tell his wife he was homosexual.  The Author reported he would go through bouts of depression and even  went to a psychotherapist in London who told him to go with his heart.  He started a relationship with a man named Allan Campbell.  His wife was OK with this.  

     When he went missing,  His wife reported him missing when he went over two Inishboffen.  She sent out a 6 hour search - the body was never found.  There was some question about this.  In the book about 10 years later there were sightings of him in gay circles in Europe.  

     Henry Macelhenny bought Glenveagh after that and  brought the castle to what it is today.  Each room is a different theme.  In the 1970’s he started to sell the lands to the Irish state.  In 1980’s gave the castle to the Irish Nation.  This is how it became a national park  Mackelhenny and Derek Hill (the painter) were great friends.  This is what encouraged Hill to move to Ireland.  Machelhenny was well known for this parties - Charlie Chaplin, Greta Garbo were some of his guests.

     We took a shuttle bus to the castle and gardens for a tour .  From the outside, the castle was beautiful and I could picture what it must have been like back in the day.  We had to wait for our tour so we all walked around the gardens. They were breathtaking.  I, myself am not much of a gardener but I can appreciate a beautiful garden when see one.  Julie said she wanted to apply for a gardner position and never leave.  

Gardens were laid out beautifully

Castle through the garden 

Beautiful flowers!

     I wandered through the gardens taking pictures and then found a path that lead down to the lake.  There was a quiet beach there and I just sat for a bit. It was very quiet and peaceful.  When our tour time came I went back to the castle.  The castle was not as big as I thought from the outside,  the rooms and furniture were decorated in the style of the 60's  It was an interesting tour.

    After our tour we went to Derick Hill's estate not far away for some lunch and a tour of his home.  Very different it was a Georgian Home and filled to the brink with art work - they had plates done by Picasso on shelves and sitting out the guide commented that a couple from Paris was shocked to see the displayed so - they said they would be in climate controlled boxes at home.  his comment was "there is some blue tack holding them on the shelves" 

     After all our touring we headed back to the Hotel.  For a day off it was very rich in history and beauty.  During dinner, Linda was looking at the weather forecast for tomorrow (Errigal day).  She told us all it may be a wave off if the rains came in when they said they were gong to - visibility would be too poor.  I was surprised to feel a sense of relief (WHAT!)  So we just have to wait and see what tomorrow holds....

Freda takes the Lead day three

     Oh boy!   Today we were hiking on the Bluestack Way.  Linda thought it would be a good idea for me to take the lead of the group as I would be doing the self guided hike in a bit.  I was game and so we meet that morning to go over the map and the directions.  As we went over the directions, I came across words that were not familiar such as "stiles".  "What is a stile? " I asked Linda.  She looked at me and said "This is brilliant!  It's so good I have you reading this with me so I can get an idea of what I need to change!"  I waited.... "So... what's a stile???"  She looked up at me from the note she was writing "Oh!  It's a ladder over a fence" she says.

Linda and Freda going over the map and directions.

     So as I was getting my vocabulary of Ireland hiking landmarks up to snuff my fellow hikers began to file in.  Linda had told them that I would be leading today and she PROMISED to not let us walk off a cliff or into a bog.  Well the second part is not completely true as it turns out the first part of the hike was COMPLETELY in a bog. Never the less the good natured ribbing started early.  Bryan (who is a retired police officer from of all places Grants Pass Oregon!), Julie his wife who is a nurse there; Andrease and Gabby from Germany and Kathy from California all had something to say.  I took it in stride as it was all done in fun.  We had to drive to  Glenties - which means the meeting of the glens and then take a cab to the start of the hike.
      The start of our hike happened to be right at a soccer pitch with flush toilets!!!! What a luxury!  As we started,  I was watching the map, reading the directions, watching the map... Linda pointed out to me that the signs were right in front of me (literally). Many of the hikes in Ireland are very clearly marked if you just looks up and in front of you.  Early lesson learned - don't over think it. Away went the map - directions in the pocket. This made me realize how much time I spend "studying the way" and if I am not careful I just might miss what is right in front of me.
     We then got to the "uphill" part that Linda had told me about earlier - it was 700 foot gain in just under a mile.  Oiy it was a challenge.  It was also all bog.  If you have never had the experience of walking in bog it's hard to describe.  I guess the closest I can come is walking through muddy squishy spongy gunk that wants to suck your feet into it every chance it gets.  It's messy, it's also a lot of up and down, in and out of ruts.  We made it to the top and the view was spectacular - Donegal Bay just south of us and mountains all around.   Today was a sunny day and on the warm side of what we had experienced thus far.

Heading up the bog Hill

     We took a break at the top  and Linda aka "the Biscuit pusher" was around with the biscuits insisting we have at least two. As we continued, we headed down the other side of the bog hill and passed herds of sheep.  We stopped for a lunch break at a bench next to a stream.  Linda, who is a wealthy of knowledge told us about the Hawthorn trees that we were sitting beside.

At the top on a "biscuit break"

    The trees have special significance in Irish folk lore and history.  In ancient times when there were feuding tribes and as they had no fences to speak of, a leader would pick a high spot for their ring fort and plant Hawthorn trees around it.  It was meant to keep the fort from view and also keep any wild animals out.  Later they often built tunnels under the ring forts in case of invasion to hide the children.  This is how one of the legends of the "little folk" came to be and how Fairy Trees got their start.
  After our lunch break we continued on, we had about 3 and 1/2 more hours ahead of us.  As we walked along a fence line with sheep on the right  we saw a lone lamb was on the hillside to our left.  As we walked by, the lamb  realized it's mom was on the other side and started to charge the fence trying to get back to her. Considering the fence was not open it would just bounce off.  Linda jumped into action and herded the lone lamb to a gate up the road and back to his "mum"  It was fun to watch the reunion. Mama sheep baaing and baby lamb answering.  Even the guys were smiling.

The signs are clear if you look

     On we went... When we got to a cross roads one of our travelers was having a hard time. Kathy had developed blisters and could not walk any further.  Linda had us go on ahead.  When she caught up to us later... alone.... we asked what happened. She told us Kathy decided to wait and Linda promised to go fetch her when we were done.  She said "I also told her there was a good chance she would get picked up by a farmer."  Not 15 minutes later Linda's phone rang and sure enough Kathy had been picked up by a farmer! We found out later, that the farmer had taken Kathy to see his farm, his heard of 200 sheep, his sheep dogs, his ancestral home and drove her around town.  Linda asked when the wedding was!

End of the hike  - Slante'

     As we neared the end of our walk (and I didn't loose anyone - Kathy didn't count, she wasn't lost!) The promise of a rest and restroom loomed ahead.  Linda had told Kathy to meet us at the Hotel pub.  I was the first to arrive,  I later found out all my fellow walkers thought I was anxious for my Guinness, when in truth I really wanted a flush toilet!!!  As we sat - Our guide once again uttered the words we all looked forward to hearing "Job well done!  You should be proud of yourselves!!" And we were! Slainte'

Day Two...Sleive League

     Day two dawned wet and cold... our destination today was south of where we hiked yesterday, a place called Sleive League.  On our way there we went through the "valley of the swans" more commonly known as Glengesch pass.

Linda shared a story about how the valley got it's name.  The story goes that  two ancient tribes the Milesians and Tuath d Danana were feuding, to keep the peace they had a marriage between the tribes.  The story goes that after the couple  had three children the mother died and the father married another daughter from the Tuath d Danana tribe.  Unfortunately, she was jealous of the love the father had for his children so she cast a spell and turned them into swans banishing them to spend 300 years in the south,  300 years in the west and 300 years in the North only having the spell broken when they heard the bell of the christian faith. They were known as the children of Li'r  The belief is that they passed through this valley which is how it got its name.

Children of Li'r statue in Dublin

Glengesch Valley

Once we reached our starting point, we began our hike in the pouring rain.  By the time we reached the first stop we were all soaked - I was very grateful for quick dry clothes.  Lucky for us (?)the wind picked up  and we all got wind dried!  The hike up was just that UP.  Linda had shared earlier that the views would be breathtaking.

one of many beautiful watrfalls

 The footing was a little tricky as it was rocks and some bogs.  The closer we got the colder and windier it got. The clouds had not left us.  We continued bravely, seeing some amazing waterfalls, formations and another pilgrim site.  I was amazed that they managed to carry the rocks up to the point we were in order to build this (for the time) rather substantial church.
 It was in ruins but one could picture how it looked when it was standing.  We trudged on and got to the end of the first section.

The ruins of the church

Visability was pretty poor

The plan was to go over one mans pass, a razors edge, to the top of Sleive League... only problem was we couldn't find it in the cloud.  Visibility was very bad. We stopped for a very quick lunch and reconvened to decide what to do. I know Linda was holding out hope that the clouds would lift and we would be able to see the view.  It was not to be.  As we went down she was telling us - "If it clears by the third marker we are coming back up."  Sadly it did not.  Par for the course in Ireland - the weather is often unpredictable.  The hike itself was amazing, and as she often tells us "you will feel a great sense of accomplishment!" Which we all did.


After we got done we headed to the Rusty Mackerel for a celebratory toast.  I went for the Irish Mist (as our guide was trying to get us all to try it - considering we had just come OUT of the Irish Mist...yes I know very literal... :-)  So I did - I had it in my 20's when I dated a guy who was partial to the stuff.

Our happy group at the rust Mackerel

 Anyway, Linda was determined to show us what we missed so we headed to the Bunglas cliffs and it was truly breathtaking.  We finally got to see where we had hiked!  We were very impressed with ourselves :-)

Our group at the Bunglas Cliffs

St. Columbus Pilgrim Walk

It's day one of this amazing journey.  We started at breakfast making plans for the day of hiking.  The day started wet, raining and blowing.  Was not sure how it would go and I confess a touch of nerves.  we drove to St. Columbus Church but first got a lesson in bogs, turf, peat and the important of preservation.

A waggel of Peat!

Linda tok the time to explain to use the history of the bog harvesting, how the Irish farmers have struggled with wanting to cut and use the bog for income and the increased push to preserve it.  She shared how the Dutch had come to share information about the downsides of over harvesting the Bog.  We also learned that a farmer could own the field but not the rights to harvest the Bog.

Linda explains how the bog is drained, cut and dried

Linda was a wealth of knowledge!






We then went on to start our hike at the church of St. Columbanus.  We followed the pilgrims path and saw many of the stops they made along the way.

We had one blustery rain storm while still in the van and then off we went.  Another interesting bog fact is that there are thing - evil nasty- no fun things called Bog Hag's that are ruts left in the bog after they have been harvested.  We spent about half the hike navigating over and around theses.  It was like being on a wacky elliptical

The hike started in Glencolmcille  and we walked the cliffs and bog land to the lookout at Glen Head.  The views were spectacular.  I remember thinking how quiet it was - there were no sounds but the sea, the wind and the occasional  Chauf (a blackbird with orange beak and feet).   We saw the watch tower that was built when the Irish thought that Napoleon was going to invade.  These line the coast of Ireland  were manned to watch for the impending invasion.  It was right about this point that the wind picked up and a mini squal came in and out. If you want to know what the weather is in Ireland...wait 5 minutes.... We ate lunch on the cliffs.  Truly amazing sight,  we ended our hike back at the Church of St. Columbanus.

I was happy that I was able to keep up.  Coming in I was not sure what I was going to be able to do.  The hardest part for me was the bog hags.  The up and down was a bit jarring but otherwise kinda fun.  Linda at one point jumped on the bog with all of us standing around, you could feel the vibration like a mini quake!
After we got done Linda took us to a Folk village not too far away for some tea and scones. Reward for a job well done!  I am finding myself slowing down, it is happening quicker than I thought.  Also really working to not think of "what will tomorrow be like" but staying present in the moment I'm in.  The day ended with an amazing dinner at Kitty Kelly's in Killybegs.

Church of St. Columbanus

The first marker 

Still standing since the 6th Century.

Busses and slowing down...

Thirty hours is a long time to be awake.  Had a couple few 10-15 minutes naps in there but not a good long stretch of sleep.  Bus transport in Ireland is very laid back.  No one is in a hurry.  Not a bad thing but one that has me grinding gears in an attempt to slow down.

Once I got to Donegal I had about a 2 hours wait for the next bus, so I took a stroll around (after having a bite at "Freda's famous homemade craft bakes')

Found this place when I stepped off the bus in Donegal

Had a cup of tea and a scone.

Times for busses are approximations apparently, and I found several different times listed depending where you looked.  I had a ball park figure.  I once again found myself in a conversation with others about the busses as I waited.  Meet two lovely sisters on their way to Letterkenny (what is with this place!)  I need to find out what the draw is.... They were both from Ireland and Ann, was telling me about their travels and her knee replacement,  her sister Blanche lives in Germany and was visiting.  

In the center of Donegal Town

The Irish as a whole thus far have been very friendly and open.  They heard my plans and were both encouraging and motherly in their concern for my safety going it alone.   As I waved goodbye when their bus pulled away I had to smile. This is already so much more than I anticipated and I've just started.  It's amazing what can happen and the experiences you can have when you have an open heart and open mind.

Once my bus arrived for Adara, which I still am not 100% sure how to pronounce as I've had at least four different ways given, I got on and there were about half dozen older (60+) gentleman that got on, as well as other tourists.  I could tell these men were locals and were speaking in Irish.  From what I have gathered there is a larger percentage of Irish speaking areas or Gaeltact on the west coast especially in the area I am now, County Donegal. It was interesting listening to them as they spoke and mixed English and Irish.  They got door to door drop off from the driver and I had to put the breaks on my crankiness after we passed the sign for Adara and traveled further west then backtracked.  I kept dozing but did not to miss my stop.  When we stopped in front of the Nesbitt Arms I was never so happy to see a place!  I got checked in, although I don't remember doing it, went upstairs to my room and took a 2 hour nap.

Very happy to have arrived

My lodging for a bit

Once awake-ish, I went down to the pub in the Hotel and had some dinner (and a Guinness!)

Took a walk about town and then crashed for much needed solid 8.  

Ahhhhh

Soup and salad never tasted so good!

Walk around town

The Irish take their music very seriously